The crossing into Argentina begins with an early boat from Villa O'Higgins, ferrying you accross the lake of the same name and past the glaciar of the same name. The trip takes nearly all day and is particularly special because of it's unique access to such a remote huge glacier and it's many icebergs. Unlike the other more accessible glaciers in Patagonia, with organised excursions aboard 300-seater catamarans, there is only one boat on this lake, and for the 20 or so people on board, it is possible to experience the remoteness and isolation of the Campo de Hielo Sur, the vast southern icefield.
After saying goodbye to Holger and Karin (they were heading back into Chile) we disembarked at Candelario Mansilla, essentially just a farm and a border post with a jetty, and began inquiring about horses for rent. As there are no roads here, and even the horse track is very bad in sections, we needed the animals to carry our bags over the 22km pass to Laguna Del Desierto in Argentina, whilst we would push our bikes. Unfortuantely the horses were all being used to round up cows so we camped for the night at the farm and set off in the morning.
The crossing begins with a long switchback climb giving amazing views of the huge lake dotted with icebergs. When we reached a high saddle, we got our first view of Cerro FitzRoy nearly 30km away, the surreal granite spire that manages to look from every angle like a painted backdrop in a fantasy film. We continued along a high forested valley between snowy hills until we crossed the border, marked only with sign in a clearing, and began our very steep descent into Argentina. The route was only difficult in certain places because we had been exceptionally lucky with the weather, but we still had to carry the bikes accross a few streams, bogs and fallen trees. The route was unique so far this trip because of it's limited access; you really are the only people in the forest as there are no roads in or out, and the only people who use the pass are those few occasionally crossing the border. We had been told to expect the worst of this crossing but we found it to be a beautiful empty and remote valley with fantastic views into both Argentina and Chile.
At Lago El Desierto, you pass Argentina immigration and catch another ferry to the start of the nearest road taking you into El Chalten. The boat was late however and arrived at the southern shore after 8pm, just as the sun was setting. Camping at the lake was an option discussed, but the lure of a warm bed, a steak dinner and a bottle of red wine was too tempting however, so we set off for a 37km ride through the mountains, over an unmade road, lit only by moonlight. We rode fast and reached town by 11pm and the ride turned out to be amazing, and not as scary as we had thought; the full moon made it possible to see the bigger potholes, rocks, and even the hares and skunks crossing the road. The snow doesn't seem to dim at night and whilst the moonlight doesn't penetrate the forests, it lit up the mountain tops all around us. Reaching El Chalten, a small mountain town overrun with climbers during the summer, we threw our bags into a hostal and went for a 400gram streak and a good bottle of red each. Bienvenidos a Argentina.
El Chalten is incredible because of it's access to the FitzRoy area of the Parque Los Glaciares. All of the trailheads start from the centre of the small town and within a few hours you can be high in the mountains surrounded by crumbling glaciers and lakes, safe in the knowledge that you can get back to a warm bed and a steak dinner that evening, instead of a cold bed and mosquito-rice under canvas. We only had time for one trek here so we walked to the base of Fitz Roy itself, and had possibly one of the finest views of the holiday. Our luck with the weather continued and it was warm enough at the top to fall asleep in the sun on a big rock under the glacier. Sunburn.
Back in Chalten, we had a big farewell meal with some friends that we had been bumping into on and off since Villa O'Higgins. We would see Joan again as he was following a similar route south until Puerto Natales, so it was just 'hasta luego' to him.
Day 47: Candelario Mansilla to El Chalten: 57km
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