A few more sad goodbyes marked our departure from the campsite in the morning, and left us reflecting about how so much of our experience is down to pure luck. I'm not sure every set of neighbours could have been so freindly, and would have shared the same sense of humour about so many things? We circled the north and eastern shores of the lake for about 18km, passing the wooden cabins of the Mapuche people that populate the area, until we met the start of the rio Aluminé. This is a big river for both trout fishing and white water rafting; a bad mix I imagine? The scenery becomes even more alpine hereafter, complete with log cabins, and we could have almost been in the south of France approaching the Alps. This is also dairy and honey country, and it was lovely passing along lavendar-fringed roads, through shallow valleys full of farmsteads selling fresh honey, chocolate, cherries and cheese. The novelty wore off after being hit in the face by the millionth bee. It was easy to pick a perfect spot by the river to camp because they were everywhere. We settled on a secluded spot away from the road, shaded by birch trees, and with it's own 'private' sandy beach leading down to the crystal clear water. It'll take something special to top this as 'wild camp spot of the holiday'!
Unfortunately the following day was marked by long hot climbs over heavily corrugated dirt roads. We even left the river behind for most of the day. We did however bump into a couple of French cycle-tourers heading north, picking wild cherries by the side of the road. We were doing more or less the same trip in opposite directions so we swapped stories, and they warned us about the same isues as the Swiss couple; rising costs and limited availability of beds and campsites in Patagonia. They did at least say that it was breath-takingly spectacular and well worth the effort. We rolled into Junin de los Andes, absolutely knackered after 75 km of some of the worst roads we've bounced along; enough to numb your hands for hours. Mysteriously pork ribs and wine cure this condition.
Day 26: Villa Pehuenia to Rio Aluminé - 90km
Day 27: Rio Aluminé to Junin de los Andes - 75km
hi - we're enjoying the blogs and photos. i got as far south as an anchorage near corral, which looks to be about the same latitude as junin de los angeles, so you must be beating me in 'who's been the furthest south?' now! The only thing you didn't get was a crossing the equator ceremony and haircut - this can be arranged when you get back and jean is a dab hand with the garden shears so that's the beard trimming arranged as well! look after yourselves. malcolm & jean
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